After a work-induced hiatus, I'm back to post a backlog of reviews and updates! Starting things off will be a post that should've happened a long time ago - my review and basic mod instructions for the Cyber Hunter "Cooler Stryfe" (as dubbed by pSyk). You can find it on various "Buy China" websites like Taobao or AliExpress.
|The blaster on top, to be more precise.|
Here's the blaster straight out of the package. It runs on 4 AA batteries, and uses a custom six-dart magazine that holds any kind of streamlined dart (regular, suction elites, etc). A switch mounted on the side of the blaster turns the flywheel motors on and off. There are safety switches on the jam door on top and within the magazine well.
The stock magazine well fits most Nerf brand magazines...kinda. The slot is the right size, and the fit is tight enough to keep even a 35 dart drum in place, but the mag release mechanism and safety don't actually line up. As a result, it's possible to put the magazine in too far or not far enough, resulting in misfeeds, The solution is adding a 5/16" spacer at the very front of the mag well (not shown in picture) for the main ridge on the magazine to stop on. Thus should put everything at the corrent height.
Opening up the inside, we can see the battery tray, the various switches, and the flywheel cage. Note the close spacing - the flywheels are actually pretty small compared to other electrically-powered blasters. The trigger just moves a spring-loaded pusher arm
Here are the switches for ON'OFF, and for the mag well. Note that you cannot pull the trigger unless the blaster is turned ON.
Stock performance for my blaster had the majority of shots landing in the 70-75' range, with a shallow angle of fire and about two seconds pause between shots. I'll have chronograph data later for a more quantifiable result.
Now for my basic modification! I wanted this to be a multi-gametype blaster, useful at both stock and higher voltages. This is a mod I've also applied to my Prime Time Toys Scorpion, in a slightly different setup, and it makes your war blaster supply a bit more versatile.
You'll need basic electrical skills, small gauge wire, small wire nuts, solder and a soldering iron. You'll also need a small 2AA battery pack, and any necessary connectors (mine uses a 9V style terminal for its connection). Finally, you need a miniature double throw switch, to allow you to add extra voltage when desired. Simply insert the switch into the existing circuit, and connect the third terminal to the extra batteries, tying the parallel circuits back together afterward.
In this blaster, there's sufficient empty space within the shell for battery placement. I chose the top rear portion, as it's easy to remove a single shell piece to gain access to the battery pack for replacing the alkaline cells. I'm not going to include a diagram, as I'm assuming you have at least a basic understanding of DC circuits. This blaster in particular is really straightforward in setup.
Use a dremel or small drill to carve out a hole for the switch, and glue it in place.
With the additional voltage, dart ranges on my blaster jumped to 90-95', again with most darts falling in that range.
If you can find this blaster on sale, order it. It performs well, is sturdy, and works well in Nerf war settings.